how to burn a stump with diesel

How to Burn a Stump with Diesel – Effective Methods

Uprooting is a complex and difficult process, which requires either serious efforts of one or several people, or special equipment equipped with equipment to perform these works. Therefore, often, instead of uprooting, they resort to burning the stump. This method of removal requires significantly less effort, and in some cases is the only way to properly remove the stump, but it should be used with caution. Today we tell about how to burn a stump with diesel and other methods.

When It Is Possible to Burn Stumps

Bacterial infections affecting the roots and trunks of trees cannot be destroyed by uprooting, because even a small piece of the root remaining in the ground contains these bacteria.

In addition, pathogens are found in the soil surrounding the roots, so even the complete removal of the root system does not make the soil safe for trees.

how to burn a stump with diesel

During the rise of groundwater caused by rain or other factors, some of the bacteria gets into them and can infect nearby plants. To avoid this, it is necessary to destroy the infection located in the roots and soil, for which the soil is treated with aseptic substances or heated to a temperature that leads to the death of bacteria.

Treatment with aseptic substances is not always effective, especially on clay soils, due to poor water permeability, so burning is the most reliable way to destroy a stump.

Also, stumps are burned if it is impossible to remove the clod and roots in other ways. This is especially true in cases when cutting and uprooting do not lead to the death of the root system and after a while new sprouts appear from the roots remaining in the ground, and treatment with herbicides that kill the plant is unacceptable for some reason.

Types of Burning

There are three main methods of burning stumps, which differ in purpose and execution:

  • surface;
  • full;

We will analyze each of the methods in detail.

Surface

For him, the stump is covered with firewood and dead wood, then diesel fuel and set on fire. As a result, only the aboveground part and a little of the underground part are burned.

This method of burning is not suitable for fighting bacteria and fighting sprouts from root residues. The main condition for the complete combustion of the stump is the use of firewood, the diameter of which is not inferior to the diameter of the stump near the ground. The active burning time is 2-5 hours, then there is a risk of fire from burning coals for another 5-10 hours.

Full

To burn a stump in the ground, a hole is dug around it to release the roots, which are then cut off and used as diesel fuel. For the complete combustion of such a stump, it is necessary to put firewood together with the roots in the pit, the size of which is not less than the size of the stump in the lowest part.

Burning time is the same as that of the previous method of burning, and the risk of fire from coals persists for 10-15 hours.

Chemical

This method allows you to burn even deep roots without digging them out. To do this, saltpeter or urea is placed in the stump and left for 1-2 years so that the reagent impregnates the wood.

After soaking, the stump is set on fire with a small amount of kindling. Burning is 30-90 minutes, after the end of burning there is no danger of fire, because the wood burns completely, leaving no coals.

How to Burn a Stump

This is a fairly quick way to remove a tree stump. Unlike impregnating the stump with saltpeter, this method does not require much time and leaves the roots of the stump intact in the ground. In order to avoid an underground fire, this method cannot be used on peat soils.

how to burn a stump with diesel

There are two ways to burn a tree stump with diesel fuel.

A metal barrel without a bottom can be installed on the tree stump. In this barrel, you need to periodically burn garbage and eventually the tree stump will burn out completely. This method is best suited for a fresh, recently sawn stump.

You can make a so-called Finnish candle from a tree stump. This method is suitable for dry stumps. Fresh stumps will often go out.

  • First, a hole is drilled in the center of the stump. The diameter of the hole should not be too small. The diameter from 20mm is best suited.
  • After that, the second hole must be drilled on the side of the stump in such a way that it connects with the first hole. This side opening is necessary to supply air to the burning zone. For better air supply, you can drill several side holes.
  • Pour 100-200 ml of diesel fuel or charcoal ignition liquid into the hole, which is used in the preparation of shish kebab.
  • We make a wick from a cotton fabric and moisten it with a flammable liquid. We lower the wick into the hole.

If the stump does not ignite the first time, then you need to add small dry branches and repeat the arson again.

Safety Precautions

Here is a list of rules that are not prescribed in the documents, but their violation often leads to fires and injuries:

  • Do not use gasoline or other flammable liquids for ignition, if you accidentally pour your clothes and start a fire, you can get serious burns.
  • Do not make a fire in windy weather. The stronger the wind, the higher the flame from the burning wood, and the sparks fly noticeably further. In addition, in windy weather, it is easier for a spark or a flown coal to ignite combustible materials than in calm weather.
  • Do not leave burning wood unattended, if something goes wrong and safety measures cannot stop the spread of fire, then you must immediately start extinguishing it, and if the fire is too strong, call firefighters.
  • When watching burning wood, always stand to windward (so that the wind blows from you to the fire), so as not to inhale smoke. This is especially important for chemical combustion, because the smoke from saltpeter-soaked wood is acrider than from ordinary wood.

Other Removal Methods

how to burn a stump with diesel

To destroy stumps, you can use ordinary salt, saltpeter or copper sulfate.

How to Remove a Stump with Saltpeter

Saltpeter significantly increases the ability of wood to ignite, so it is used if the site allows you to build a fire here later. You need to act carefully: after using saltpeter, even the roots under the ground will burn. How to use saltpeter: deep holes are drilled in the stump itself, as far as the drill allows, fill them with saltpeter, fill them with water, and then they are clogged and left for the winter or until autumn, if the work takes place in the spring. In 5-6 months, saltpeter penetrates the entire root system. Then, as far as possible, you need to choose the ground around and build a fire.

One disadvantage is that nitrates also get into the soil, and they can harm nearby plants. To restore fertility to this place after burning the stump, it is covered with healthy earth and for the first year plants are planted that do not eat, giving a lot of green foliage. These plantings will pull out excess nitrates from the soil, and then you can plant something useful here.

How To Remove A Stump With Copper Sulfate

Copper sulfate also helps to quickly get rid of the remnants of a diseased tree. It, like saltpeter, is placed in holes drilled in the stump and left for about a year. Then the stump, as mentioned above, is burned − or the remains of decomposed wood are extracted in the usual mechanical way.

A Tool for Removing Stumps

Many chemical products designed to remove stumps are made with potassium nitrate. This compound contains potassium, nitrogen and oxygen, which reduce the time of natural decay from several years to 4-6 weeks. This is safe for the environment and is a fairly fast method. Removal agents are most effective when used on old, dead stumps. If you are dealing with a freshly cut tree, start with a stump killer based on products containing systemic insecticides, such as triclopyr, to destroy the roots and prevent the re-growth of shoots. Apply the chemical to the top of the stump for a few minutes after making a fresh cut, so that the product is quickly absorbed into the remaining stump and roots. If the stump was cut not so long ago, but not 10 minutes ago, then you can drill holes as in the version with salt.

Removing A Stump with Mushrooms

This is another way to turn a stump into dust. To do this, you will need oyster mushrooms or honey mushrooms. Mushroom caps need to be crushed, filled with water and shaken well. After this solution is filtered and the stump is watered. To increase the area of moistening, you can make notches in the stump with an axe. To maintain constant humidity, the stump must be covered with branches. It is advisable to moisten the stump occasionally, especially in hot weather. After a few months, the mycelium should germinate. The average stump will yield mushrooms for about 6 years, then the stump will turn into dust. The remains of the stump can then be easily broken up. The best time to infect a stump with fungal spores is the period from May to August.

FAQ

What is the fastest way to burn a stump out?

The effectiveness of burning directly depends on the method of preparation. If the stump is covered with firewood and burned, then only that which is located above the ground or buried 3-5 cm deep and is located near the fire will burn. You can increase the efficiency of burning by digging up the roots and laying firewood not only on the trunk, but also on them. However, already at a distance of 1-2 m from the fire, if the roots are damaged, they are not such as to completely collapse. Therefore, for effective burning of roots at a great distance from the stump, as well as reducing the volume of land work, wood residues are impregnated with special reagents.

How do you burn a rotten tree stump?

With a long drill on a tree, two maximally deep, communicating channels are drilled into the stump: one vertical in the center, the other at an angle to it. Then pour 100-200 g of diesel fuel or liquid for igniting coals into the central hole (this is better than gasoline, which will burn out quickly), lower a wick made of cotton tape about half a meter long and soaked in the same diesel fuel, and set it on fire. For better gorenje it is necessary to drill a few more side holes in the lower part of the stump and at first maintain the fire. Then it will work by itself. Depending on the quality of the wood — raw and dense or old and rotten — the stump will burn out within about 12-15 hours. By the way, they also practice this option: they just regularly build a small fire on the saw, which slowly but surely burns it to the roots.

Can I use diesel to start a fire?

Just pour diesel fuel over the stump and set it on fire − it will be of little use. Yes, it will not give more growth, but it is unlikely to get rid of it completely. But some summer residents act differently. You can still set fire only to the stump itself, but this is a troublesome, although effective. From the stump, you can make a kind of Finnish candle or just punch two holes to ensure a long and effective burning from the inside. One hole is made in the center deep into the stump, and the second – horizontal − so that it intersects with the vertical one. A wick is placed in the vertical hole – a rag with kerosene − and ignited.

Conclusion

One of the most unpleasant residents on the gardener’s plot is a stump. And okay, if it’s small, from some cherry. Well, puffing for a day or two and you can uproot it. Fortunately, we have a simple and convenient way, and which we talked about in this article.

Burning is one of the ways to get rid of stumps left after cutting or felling trees. Its main advantage is that no special tools or complex equipment are required for incineration.

This method is not time-consuming; it will not require a lot of effort or specialized equipment from you. With this method, you alone can easily remove at least a dozen stumps from your site. There is no secret of deletion, as a matter of fact, there is no.

As a result of the use of an open fire, this process has a drawback: it cannot be used in places where it is impossible to make a fire. Namely, near gas pipelines, houses, overhead power lines, etc.

But in this way, you can remove absolutely any stumps in size and condition: raw or rotten.

After reading the article, you learned:

  • when it is possible to burn stumps;
  • how to do it correctly;
  • what security measures should be followed.

How to stop tree branches from growing back

How to Stop Tree Branches from Growing Back – Detailed Manual

Gardeners usually dream of compact fruit trees. But most of the adult apple and pear trees in our dachas are giants. But the height of these plants can be controlled! Small trees are much easier to care for and easier to harvest. Small-sized crowns are well lit and ventilated, which has a positive effect on the fruits and on the health of the tree. How to stop tree branches from growing back?

Why Should You Cut Tree Branches

How to stop tree branches from growing back

Pruning of tree branches from growing is carried out in order to form a tree, regulate growth and fruiting, improve the quality of fruits, improve the illumination of the crown, rejuvenate, remove dry, diseased and damaged branches. It makes it possible to grow trees of the required size with a strong trunk that can withstand large fruit harvests, ensures long-term preservation of the productivity of overgrown wood and obtaining high-quality fruits.

After planting the garden and before its entry into fruiting, pruning is carried out in order to form trees of the same type in the height of the stem, the number and location of stable skeletal branches of the crown along the conductor, taking into account the biological characteristics of breeds and varieties.

During the fruiting period, pruning tree branches provides an annual increase of sufficient length, laying a moderate number of flower buds, protects the crown from thickening, maintaining the necessary lighting inside it by thinning the branches. Pruning allows you to replace old fruit formations with young ones, preserve and create fruit formations along the entire length of the branches.

There are the following tasks of pruning trees:

  • Maintaining and improving the crown of the tree, the plant looks well-groomed and attractive;
  • Regulation of the growth and development of culture in the garden;
  • Increasing the number of harvested crops, improving the quality of each fruit (size, taste);
  • Prevention of thickening of branches, which leads to diseases and a decrease in the yield of the tree;
  • Timely removal of diseased shoots is a measure to combat the spread of the disease and the death of an entire tree;
  • Rejuvenation of the tree, the cut branches become stronger and thicker, they are able to give a high-quality harvest and withstand a larger number of fruits.

There are two ways of pruning fruit trees: thinning, when the entire branch is completely removed, as gardeners say, on the ring, and shortening, when a part of the branch is usually removed over the bud of annual shoots or on a side branch-over a branch of old branches.

When pruning a tree, one or another part of the crown, its skeletal and overgrown branches are removed. This violates the necessary correspondence of the main parts of the tree that has been established in the plant. Such a violation causes increased growth in the tree and ensures the restoration of the disturbed balance.

After pruning, new increments appear in the tree, more or less strong, depending on the age and condition of the tree, the degree and method of pruning, the time of its implementation and on which part of the crown the pruning was done, etc.

How to Stop Tree Branches from Growing Back

How to stop tree branches from growing back

Incorrect and inept pruning tree can lead to excessive thickening of the crown, to later fruiting and a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit trees due to poor aging of the wood and prolonged growth of shoots at the end of the growing season.

In the practice of amateur gardening, mistakes in pruning have undesirable consequences. On many sites of horticultural associations, you can see such a picture. Fruit trees have too high a stem (up to 2 m) or the main skeletal branches are exposed to the same height. The first situation arose from the fact that in the first years after planting the garden, amateur gardeners did not carry out the formation of the crown of trees or in a more mature state they had to cut out the main skeletal branches that died from improper pruning of trees.

The second situation is observed in areas where the gardener, wanting to somehow thin out the crown, cuts out the completely overgrown wood with a pruner to the height of an outstretched arm. From such pruning, the fruiting zone is transferred to the upper parts of the crown, the productivity of fruit trees decreases, and the care of the crown and the crop is significantly hampered.

How the crown of a fruit tree is formed largely determines its further productivity, the convenience of caring for the crown, the size and quality of the crop, the strength of skeletal branches, the nature and strength of their growth. The crown, formed without the participation of the gardener, usually has a large amount of unproductive wood, is one-sided, fragile and inconvenient to work with.

Highly branching varieties of fruit tree create excessive thickening of the crown, in varieties with weak shoot-producing ability, on the contrary, the crowns are rare, with bare branches. The main skeletal branches often depart at an acute angle, so in gardens where the crown was not formed, branches are broken off, and sometimes the trunk is split.

Before starting pruning, every gardener should know why this is done. In addition to the above tasks, we should not forget that pruning greatly activates and even changes the biochemical processes in plants.

Under its influence, the sugar content increases in the shoots of fruit crops at the beginning of the growing season due to changes in the flow of nutrients to the places of injury of branches, pruning improves the conditions of water supply of the remaining growth points on the tree and the conditions of their nutrition.

Almost all parts of the aboveground system of fruit trees are pruned, so it is absolutely necessary for every amateur gardener to know about the structure of the main parts of the fruit tree, their purpose and functions.

Growth period

How to stop tree branches from growing back

A young tree in the first years of life, during the so-called growth period, gives strong vegetative growth of the trunk and skeletal branches of the first orders and few weakly growing branches. A small number of skeletal branches grow at the ends (apical buds), and the volume of the crown increases rapidly, but crowns are rare.

The main task of pruning fruit trees in this first period is the formation of the tree, its trunk and the main skeletal branches of the crown, their correct and uniform placement in different directions, regulation of their growth and acceleration of the formation of overgrown branches-future carriers of the first harvests.

To do this, individual skeletal branches of the tree are systematically shortened in such a way that the main skeletal branches give stronger gains; temporary skeletal branches that are worse located, less durable, are cut off more so that they do not interfere with the main ones;

in summer, if necessary, additional pinching of the lateral branches is carried out to turn them into semi-skeletal and cover them with overgrown branches. In apple trees of different varieties, this growth period lasts up to about 5-6 years, and only in late-ripening varieties-up to 10 years.

The Period of Growth and Fruiting

How to stop tree branches from growing back

In the second period of life of the tree – the period of growth and fruiting-the tree continues to have strong growth of skeletal branches of different orders, the number of skeletal branches increases, the crown thickens, a greater number of overgrown branches are formed and the first fruits appear. Harvests at the beginning of the period are irregular, the fruits are placed inside the crown on the first overgrown twigs.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period consists in the further formation of the crown of the tree, for which the annual increments of the conductors and the lateral skeletal branches are shortened, while observing the strict subordination of the skeletal branches to the conductor and the lateral branches of the higher order to the branches of the lower orders.

Excess skeletal branches of the tree that thicken the crown are sometimes removed entirely, on the ring or partially over the lateral branch without leaving a stump-thorn. Thus, the crown is thinned, which provides better access of light and air to the inner parts of the crown, where the crop is mainly located.

The Period of Fruiting and Growth of the Tree

How to stop tree branches from growing back

In the next period – the period of fruiting and growth, the progressive growth (at the ends) of skeletal branches gradually weakens and then stops completely by the end of the period. The crown reaches the largest size for this variety under these conditions.

A mass of semi-skeletal and overgrown branches is formed throughout the crown. Inside the crown, the oldest, less well-lit fouling branches begin to die off; the lower parts of the skeletal branches are exposed. Fruit yields are increasing and reaching the largest sizes.

In this period, the fruits are of high quality. By the end of the period, the frequency of fruiting is revealed in most apple varieties (most often after a year).

Pruning of fruit trees during this period consists in the systematic easy thinning of excess skeletal branches that thicken the crown and interfere with each other, and the removal of shrinking small branches. It is necessary to maintain a stronger growth at the ends of skeletal branches during this period, as this ensures the appearance of new overgrowing branches and an increase in yield.

To do this, the upper parts of the increments are shortened along the periphery of the crown. At the end of this period, a light rejuvenation is performed, that is, it is cut off for more mature wood. The place where this pruning should be carried out is determined by the presence of sufficiently strong gains in recent years (more than 20-25 centimeters).

In this period of life, such rejuvenation is usually done by cutting off three or four-year-old wood. New, stronger gains also give more productive overgrowing branches, which ensure high yields.

The Period of Full Fruiting of the Tree

How to stop tree branches from growing back

In the next period – the period of full fruiting, the volume of the crown remains one and the same size, the yields are the largest (by weight), but the fruits are already somewhat smaller, their shedding increases, the frequency of fruiting is more sharply revealed.

The growth of skeletal branches stops, the ends of all branches give only weak gains and turn into fouling ones, the drying of the fouling branches increases, and the inner part of the crown becomes barer and barer;

partially semi-skeletal and fouling branches also shrink in the peripheral part of the crown on skeletal branches of higher orders. The fruits are placed mainly closer to the periphery of the crown.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period is to regulate the growth and fruiting of the crown in a given volume in such a way as to strengthen the annual growth and, by reducing the number of weak overgrowing branches, improve the nutrition of the rest. To do this, thinning is done and weaker skeletal branches are cut out with all the overgrown branches on them.

Skeletal branches are also shortened by about five-eight-year-old, and sometimes even more mature wood to the place where there were strong gains in previous years. Heavily thickened, neglected crowns are thinned out not immediately, but gradually, over 2-3 years; with gradual pruning, the tree suffers less. Rejuvenation is also better to be carried out not immediately in one year, but gradually, over 2-3 years.

The Period of Fruiting and Drying of the Tree

How to stop tree branches from growing back

During the period of fruiting and drying and in the subsequent period, the dying of branches increases, the ends of skeletal branches on the periphery of the crown begin to dry out, and over time, both inside the crown and the wood shrinks more than it grows again. Inside the crown, “tops” appear – new strong gains of the skeletal type.

Over time, the volume of the tree crown is significantly reduced, and tops, even stronger, appear already in the depth of the crown on the lower bare sections of the branches. As a result, yields are reduced and the fruits are very small.

Pruning of fruit trees during this period is a further stronger rejuvenation of the crown. The skeletal branches are shortened to more mature wood (on a side branch or on a top), the bare unproductive temporary skeletal branches are cut out and new crown sections are formed on the tops.

At the same time, the yield increases and improves, given that the fruits are placed on younger and stronger increments. It is necessary to monitor the rejuvenated crown all the time, cut out excess shoots and give the right direction to the newly growing branches.

Rejuvenated trees with good fertilizer and careful tillage will give a normal harvest in 3-4 years. It is better to rejuvenate not all the old trees at once, but gradually, for example, through one tree. More information about prunning you’ll find in this video:

Pruning Rules

How to stop tree branches from growing back

It is not customary to make two large wounds next to each other on the trunk.

  • It is necessary to cut branches of the tree without stumps – they interfere with wound healing, crack, rot and lead to the formation of hollows.
  • Oblique cuts significantly increase the size of the wound, they heal worse and take longer.
  • The sections made with a saw are cleaned with a garden knife, then covered with garden pitch, water-based or oil paint. You can read about the saw for cutting trees in our NEW article
  • If there are not many slices, they can be covered with plasticine – it includes petrolatum, which stimulates the overgrowth of wounds.
  • A fungicide is added to any putty-usually copper sulfate.
  • As a putty, you can also use a mixture of clay and mullein (2:1), diluted to the density of sour cream, in which wool, a fractional section of hay or straw are added for viscosity.

Safety Precautions

How to stop tree branches from growing back

Safety concerns pruning processes and garden equipment issues:

  • Sharp, heavy objects should not be thrown, only passed from hand to hand. Each of them should have its own cover during transportation.
  • During the procedure, use gloves that will prevent damage, the occurrence of splinters.
  • Keep children away from tools that are dangerous for them.
  • Timely sharpen pruning shears, knives. For storage, hooks are suitable, on which you can hang an object.
  • When pruning, use a stepladder or a ladder with wide steps. Do not do pruning in the rain and on wet stairs.
  • Wear comfortable shoes so as not to slip.

F. A. Q

How to stop tree branches from growing back

How do you stop a branch from growing back?

Depending on the age of the fruit tree or berry plant, various types of pruning are distinguished. The forming one is responsible for the formation of a strong skeleton, the uniform placement of skeletal, semi-skeletal and overgrown branches, the creation of conditions for good illumination and (as a result) obtaining a quick harvest. In practice, all types of pruning are combined. In different periods of the tree’s life, different types of pruning are used. During growth and development of the tree – forming, at full fruiting of the tree – regulating, and during aging of the tree – rejuvenating.

Should you seal cut tree limbs?

If the tree is young, strong, healthy, and the pruning is done correctly, it is often really possible to do without processing. With a good ability to regenerate and high-quality care, the tree will safely heal the wounds inflicted. But to understand whether a particular plant has the necessary potential, and whether there is a real threat of infection, a gardener needs both experience and intuition. If you are not sure – it is better to insure yourself and cover the sections with garden pitch. Gradually, along with experience, understanding and the ability to find the optimal solution in any situation will come. One thing is beyond doubt: if you are processing slices, you should use only proven, high-quality formulations.

How do you stop trees from sprouting after pruning?

It can be cut in spring, early, or late autumn, when the plants are pacified. Do not disturb them in winter and summer. Some manage to produce works in late summer, but this is not appropriate. Trees during this period need to spend all their strength on growth, and not on healing wounds.

However, there is an exception. If the tree is young, it has a good growth rate. At the same time, it does not bear fruit yet. The removal of some shoots in this case is permissible and may even be useful, because the useful substances will go to the remaining shoots, which can further increase the number of fruits. It is possible to prune young animals starting from early spring.

One more exception is pruning in winter. But this is for those cases when the amount of work is large. When a large area is planted. In such a situation, the work is carried out either during a thaw, or at a temperature not lower than-10⁰. At lower temperatures, the wood will heal poorly.

How do you seal tree branches?

Cleaned and disinfected saw or wound after drying, it is necessary to cover up with a special tool. If this is not done, even if the infection does not get into it, the untreated wound is prone to cracking. Sometimes the cracks are very deep, which will worsen the well-being of the entire tree.

The most common remedy is garden decoction. It is better to choose a white decoction. It is not only practical, but also looks great after wound treatment.

For particularly large damages and hollows, using a garden decoction is expensive and impractical. Cement mortar is prepared for them and wounds and hollows are sealed with them. Also, large wounds can be sealed with a thick chatterbox made of clay, mullein and ash. It does not last long, but it can always be updated, and almost every gardener has the ingredients.

The cuts are very well covered with water-based paints. Only you need to be careful that, moving in the crown, you do not get dirty in it yourself. In this regard, garden decoction is more advantageous. Only in cold weather, the emulsion is preferable, since the decoction freezes and does not want to lie down in a thin layer.

Tree Removal Equipment: 8 Helpful Things

Tree Removal Equipment: Tools And Machines That Will Be Used In 2022

Tree removal equipment selected correctly contributes to your effective work; therefore, you do not always need to use the newest technologies. If you are looking for tree cut equipment, you can contact Arbor Tree Experts.

The professional team knows a lot about thorough tree care and has the necessary equipment depending on your preference. Talk to a company representative to learn more about its services.

Spider Lifts (Tracked Aerial Lifts) – A Breakthrough In Tree Care

Arbor Tree Experts has two kinds of Spider Lifts. The use of each kind depends on the complexity and duration of work: the first one prolongs to 60 feet, the second one broadens to 82 feet. Tracked Aerial Lifts as a type of equipment are very convenient and save a lot of time and effort. This tree cutting equipment will help you in any working situation because it is able to go anywhere and withstand all conditions.

Tools and Equipment: Spider Lifts
Tools and Equipment: Spider Lifts

The advantages are that Spider Lifts are lightweight compared to other machines and can even get into the most inaccessible places of the desired territory. In addition, they will not harm your lawn, garden or fence.

These machines can work not only on the street but also on electricity and the battery indoors. They are significantly small in size, therefore able to pass through your doorways and gates, climb stairs and overcome heavy climbs.

There are a lot of tree service equipment types. Some of them are:

Aerial Bucket Truck

This tree removal machine is powerful, can work at the height of 60 pounds, and quickly prunes and removes trees.

Tree Chippers

This machine is fully automated. It is able to crush branches and logs of almost any size (up to 19 inches) into a sliver. Next, the resulting chip is loaded into dump trucks.

Mini Skid Steers

Tools and Equipment: Mini Skid Steers
Tools and Equipment: Mini Skid Steers

This type of equipment has almost the same capabilities as a Spider Lift. It is smaller and can also pass through standard gates. His task is to take the sawn trees from your yard.

Crane Truck

Tools and Equipment: Crane Truck
Tools and Equipment: Crane Truck

The truck crane that the company provides has great technical capabilities and is capable of raising logs weighing up to 7 tons. It works at heights of up to 40 pounds, can hold and transport logs up to 14 pounds long.

Tractor With Grapple and Bucket

During large work, this machine can easily lift heavy trees and branches, as well as quickly transport them. In addition, if there is excessive grass growth on your site, the machine will remove unfavorable vegetation and maintain a pleasant park atmosphere.

Telescopic Power Pole Saws

Such a tree trimming machine is ideal for the care and trimming of decorative trees. Choose this type of equipment if you want to give your trees the perfect shape.

You can also use Hedge Trimmers for pruning bushes and shrubs.

Chain Saws

The professional team of this company has a large number of chain saws of various sizes. The choice of a chain saw depends on the complexity of the work and the size of the tree. Therefore you can use small and large chain saws; each tool is selected individually.

Of course, this is not all types of services that the company offers. The firm works not only with trees and logs but also with unnecessary stumps. Most often, this hard work requires heavy equipment. The company offers stump grinding and leveling services. The functions are:

  • 50 and 60 HP tracked self-propelled machines;
  • Depth of cut 20 inches below the surface;
  • 48 inches cutting height above the surface;
  • The trailer is towed behind;
  • 24-inch cutting depth below the surface for large tree stumps;

In addition, if you need to pull out another machine on a trailer, you can order a 4×4 truck. The truck will help deliver the stump chopper or skid steer loader to the desired site.

You can even order services of snow removal for your site because the company has this type of equipment. For these purposes, the company will provide trucks of the right size with snowplows. Professionals will also help you to remove snow even from the most inaccessible places. The company is even able to provide de-icing in winter, so people can walk and stay safe.

Thus, the company is ready to provide any tree removal equipment and make your life even easier. Remove unfavorable trees and keep your territory beautiful!
If you want to read about tree service quotes, you can read the detailed information in our updated article.

Video: Tree Removal Equipment

 

Tree Cutting Techniques - 9+Best Detailed Manual [2021]

Tree Cutting Techniques – Detailed Manual (2021)

There are a huge number of tree cutting techniques, and in this article, we will look at the main ones.

TREE CUTTING TECHNIQUES: MANUAL

Recognize and think of a safe but workable feeling scheme based on visual observation.

Pay attention to all relevant factors: the area where the trees are planted, where the wind blows, where the trees are inclined, what species they are, and what terrain features they have.

Check the quality of sharpening of the chain teeth. If they are blunt, it is necessary to sharpen them before sawing the tree. It is recommended to do it with a file. It’s important to use safe tools and tree removal equipment.

 

Continue reading “Tree Cutting Techniques – Detailed Manual (2021)”

How Beaver Cutting Down Tree: Many Amazing Facts (2021)

Beaver Cutting Down Tree – All Details

Beaver cutting down tree constantly and sometimes cause harm. And this is exactly what our article will be about today.

The banks of the Red River are home to a large population of beavers. They are a fairly large species of rodent, usually three to four pounds long.

When they grow up, they can reach a weight of forty-five to sixty pounds. They have a round head and faintly round ears. The fur is very soft and pleasant to the touch, dark brown. The tails are mostly flat, dark in color, somewhat like an oar. The teeth are quite massive and dark orange. Beaver cutting down a tree is cut down with their teeth.

Beavers settle in lodges, which they dutifully build from found branches and mud. In some rivers and streams, they construct entire dams so that the water depth is comfortable for their purposes and maintains its stability. On the Red River and other similar rivers where frequent floods occur, beaver dams do not have the desired effect.

How Beaver Cutting Down Tree: Many Amazing Facts

Therefore, beavers that live on the Red River or similar rivers build their lodges in special burrows. These burrows are located along the river bank. Often you can get into these burrows only underwater, but you can see them and above the surface of the water. It is a sight to behold when the water level is lower than usual.

Beaver Cutting down Tree: How Does A Beaver Know Which Tree To Cut Down?

It is easy enough to tell if beavers have been to a given place by looking at the trees growing around it. To fell a tree, the beaver nibbles around it, biting off sliver after sliver until he achieves the desired effect. Eventually, a distinctive mark appears at the base of the stump or log, which the beaver has cut down. Quite often beavers by their actions helping people to make cutting a tree in section.

Beavers do not gnaw on the first tree they see. They usually choose not particularly large trees to cut down. If the tree is between two and six inches in diameter, it is the one most likely to fall prey to beavers.

However, there are exceptions to every rule. Beavers can cut down larger trees as well. They may even target a tree that is thirty-three inches in diameter. If beavers are building a dam, they will cut down trees frequently.

Much more often than their brethren who live in underwater burrows. This makes sense since it is from wood that they build dams. But this is not the only reason why beavers cut down trees. This is also because the main part of their diet is the bark of trees.

How Beaver Cutting Down Tree: Many Amazing Facts
Beaver, cutting down a large oak tree, New Jersey
One beaver can saw through 100 trees and build about 50 dams in its lifetime. Their teeth are a self-sharpening tool. They grow at a record rate of up to 0.5 cm per month. As they chew through the wood, the animals grind their teeth. It takes no more than 5 minutes for a beaver to pile up a tree about 7 cm in diameter.

Their dams are majestic structures that can even be seen from space. They can be up to 700 m long. The most extensive one was recorded in New Hampshire. It was 1.2 km long.

A Little More About Beavers

  • Beavers are essentially nocturnal animals, and you can only watch them in the evening. They are quite accustomed to living in river water, thanks to their webbed hind legs. They also allow beavers to swim amazing distances at six miles per hour.
  • In order for this mammal to better navigate in the water, nature has endowed it with a transparent third eyelid. It is believed that the flat tail helps them move through the water column. However, this is not true.
  • The tail acts as a stabilizer, thanks to which the animal keeps its balance. It is also used to regulate body temperature. The tail is also a pantry for storing fat. Beavers use this part of their body to warn each other of danger: they strike the water surface with it, creating a loud sound.
  • Beavers do not hibernate during the winter, so they have an impressive layer of fat under their skin that keeps them warm during the winter, especially when they come in contact with cold water.
  • Beavers are not very adapted to life on land, they like water better. This is easy to prove. On land, they are too cautious: often stopping, sniffing for extraneous odors, and looking around to avoid a sudden attack or other dangerous situation.

Video: Beaver Cutting Down Tree

In this video you can see how beavers making their job, cutting down trees.

Catching beavers were very popular in the twentieth century because beaver pelts were highly prized in those days. Part of the steamboating on the Red River began because of the need to transport beaver pelts.

The catching of beavers was not regulated, and because of this, the population of beavers began to rapidly die out, not having enough time to leave their offspring.

Finally, people came to their senses. They introduced rules for hunting and trapping beavers, which allowed the animals to restore their population in many parts of the continent. Beavers not only rebuilt their numbers but also increased their numbers. This led to these animals becoming pests in some regions.

Widespread dams began to block the path of fish to their spawning grounds. Beaver cutting down trees began to die and in large numbers.

The fact is that people try not to cut down trees growing near riverbanks because they stabilize the banks from erosion. The root system keeps the soil from crumbling, holding it in place. When beavers cut down these trees, their root system ceases to function with the same efficiency.

Beavers, of course, make up for some of the damage they do. Their dams also keep erosion in check, and the resulting ponds quickly become populated with new insects and fish.